The 3 Graces Taverna sits on a corner opposite a fountain in the Market Shops at Sandestin. The fountain adds to the casual, Mediterranean-on-the-Gulf feel of the place. Likewise the interior, which is bright and sunny, decorated in light colors with a Greek theme. There are booths and tables, a deli counter, and a wide array of house-made cakes and pastries. Wine and beer

are served, along with some Continental soft drinks like Musette (in flavors like blood orange and pomegranate). Far from being the takeout place I thought it might be, 3 Graces Taverna is a full-service sit down restaurant, serving three meals a day—one for each Grace.

We ate lunch there on a recent weekend. I was glad to see they were doing a steady business, both dine-in and takeout. There's a full menu, plus a board with written daily specials. Only three entrees-braised lamb shanks, manicotti and chicken taso—are dinner only, so we had a good shot at most of the items. It was slightly cool, and we were pretty hungry.

We started with my nominee for the National Appetizer (if there is such a thing), fried calamari. One order suffices for two, sliced rings only, with a marinara sauce (the garlic sauce was unavailable). They were hot, tender, crisp and satisfying. We were appetized, so I guess they accomplished their mission.

Other starters/small plates include several salad choices—Greek, Cobb, and bistro style, all of which can be augmented with shrimp or chicken and are probably good choices for a light meal, a daily soup, hummus, a dip sampler of hummus, baba ganoush (eggplant dip) and tzatziki, spanakopita (spinach and feta pie), tiropita (three-cheese pie), or dolmathes (stuffed grape leaves).

For the main course, my friend and I went full-on Greek and ordered a beef and lamb gyro, and pastitsio. The latter resembles lasagna, with layered pasta, seasoned ground beef and a creamy bechamel sauce. Other main course dishes include a Greek sampler platter, souvlaki (skewered chicken or pork), meatball sandwich, fish wrap, moussaka (beef, eggplant and potato casserole), and assorted panini of chicken, spinach and cheese, and vegetables. There's also a muffaletta, feta cheeseburger, chicken gyro, spaghetti and meatballs, pita pizza, and several full-size pizzas with Greek, American, Italian and Hawaiian toppings. The 16-inch pizzas are the most expensive items on the menu, and are big enough to share.

Our food came, and it was just the right portions to fill up winter-hungry stomachs. The pita gyro was wrapped in foil (like the street food it frequently is) and was full of sliced meat, onions, tomatoes and the yogurt-and-cucumber tzatziki sauce, which always tastes cool and refreshing. On the side were crisp herb-seasoned fries. The pastitsio was brown and chewy-crunchy on top, and loaded with ground beef that tasted of cinnamon and maybe cloves. The bechamel was just rich enough to enhance, not overcome, the pasta and meat. There were two slices of grilled bread to make sure no sauce got away.

We managed to eat it all, then compromised by splitting a dessert. The counter is filled with cakes, rolls, pastries, and sweets of all kinds, but we decided to finish traditional with a single wedge of baklava, the Middle East's version of Southern pecan pie (it's probably the other way around). Baklava servings always look rather small, but one or two bites of the intense, flaky, honey-sweet and nut-rich dessert are always just enough of a sweet finish for a substantial meal. The desserts probably vary daily, but I bet they manage baklava all the time.

The Market Shops area is doing a lot of changing. We took a walk around the shops after lunch and were surprised at what was there, and what had gone. There did seem to be a lot of renovation work. If the workers are looking for a good spot for a meal, I know where to send them.